Hello lovelies! Recently as I've been getting more into Lolita and actually buying pieces, I've been simultaniously getting more into the comunity aspect of Lolita. Unfortunately, this also means seeing more and more of the "rules" lawyers common in Lolita. A lot of people who are in to the Lolita style have a very defined view of the fashion based on a few common styles, usually Sweet, Classic, and Gothic Lolita. While those "rules" may very well apply to those particular styles in most cases, there's a HUGE variety of substyles in Lolita, many of which don't fit into the "typical" Lolita look. Following I'm going to state a few "rules," followed by an explaination of why this statement isn't a solid "rule," and more a suggestion. All of my statements are based on research I've been doing on various substyles in Lolita as well as the history behind Lolita. I've been studying the Lolita style since I first became aquanted to it around 2009.
Rule #1: You must have a petticoat, otherwise it isn't Lolita
The reasoning behind this is based on what is considered the "traditional" cupcake or A line skirt shape common in styles such as Sweet and Classic Lolita. However, this "rule" completely ignores styles such as Kodona Lolita where the style is made slightly more masculine by wearing pants. Another good example of this is Casual Lolita which typically consists of a cutsew, skirt, and light accessories. Petticoats are completely against the point of this substyle as they can be bothersome and cumbersome at times and the point of Casual Lolita is to have more freedom of movement as well as to take a break from the typical layers common in popular Lolita substyles.
Rule #2: Lolita blouses must have puffed sleeves and plenty of lace or lots of ruffles
This is certainly true for the fancier and sweeter Lolita substyles, but in some styles blouses are less frequently used, or sometimes completely obliterated. As the name sugests, Punk Lolita can vary strongly from the typical puffed sleeves and knee-length, bell shaped shirts common in many Lolita substyles. Punk coordinates can have typical t-shirt sleeves, standard button-ups, or even no blouse at all. Asymetrical skirts with little to no petticoat are also seen in this style. "Then what differenciates it from a typical punk style?" you may ask. Unlike most punk styles, Punk Lolita incorporates some of the main points of the Traditional Lolita style. Skirts typically are close to or at knee length, lace, corset detailing, and bows are also incorporated. Plus, there's versions of Punk Lolita that are essentially a regular One Piece (OP) with a bell shaped skirt, but with slightly worn looking fabric, plaid patterns, or chains and leather.
Rule #3: Lolita must be kept modest at all times
For the majority of Lolita substyles, this is certainly true. However, one substyle in particular plays on the more typical Lolita look in a sexier fashion: Ero Lolita. Ero Lolita is a much less known and worn style amongst Lolitas and is based on the artwork of an artist with a very eccentric art style. (I appologize for not being unable to remember the name of said artist.) Unlike typical Lolita, Ero Lolita plays on fettish elements such as PVC fabric, cage skirts, corsets, and garters. While it uses this sort of element, Ero Lolita is by no means trashy or over revealing. As it takes an understanding of the traditional elements of Lolita as well as how to tweak these elements to be more revealing without looking like a costume, Ero Lolita is not a good style to start with in the Lolita world.
Rule #4: Proper Lolitas do not buy replicas. EVER!
While buying replicas is typically frowned upon (see my previous post), there are instances where buying a replica can be considered acceptable. The main instance is if you are a larger or "plus sized" Lolita. Since Lolita is originally from Japan, many Brand pieces are made for smaller figures, so it's difficult for anyone who's either busty, larger built, or heavyset to get their dream dress prints and have them fit. In some cases it's possible to have a dress altered in a way that retains the print and/or style, but allows for a larger size, but in other cases the dresses are far too tiny and a Lolita must find a store that can copy the pattern and design, but make a much larger size. I personally feel this is perfectly acceptable as everyone should be able to get their dream dress and enjoy Lolita even if they aren't as petite as other Lolitas. While considerations should still be taken to avoid illegal reproduction, replicas make it a lot less expensive to wear Brand as a larger Lolita than buying two or more dresses or skirts to be cobbled together in order to fit.
So while there are a lot of guidelines as well as the typical silhouette of Lolita to keep in mind, Lolita can still be a very diverse fashion with many different faces. I hope that everyone can enjoy this style in their own way and not feel limited by mainstream Lolita styles.
Enjoy!
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